Louisville, KY was in the news recently- for all the worst reasons. There was a horrific shooting incident at a downtown bank. An armed disgruntled employee showed up at a board meeting, wreaking havoc and death before being killed by police.
This awful Louisville news hurt my heart for several reasons. The pain and loss of this tragedy was awful, but additionally the violent news did not at all match the fond memories I have of that city. Like many US cities, Louisville has some unpleasant history and crime to overcome. But I found today’s “Derby City” to be a hospitable creative place. When I visited Louisville, its residents were pleasant, helpful, and so obviously proud to share their hometown with visitors.
I travel enough to know that such qualities are not commonly found amongst the residents of all cities. Even though I was just a typical tourist doing all the typical touristy things, that lovely attitude was everywhere. During my whole time there, I had nothing but positive personal interactions. This ranged from my visits to the giant baseball bat at the Louisville Slugger Museum and Factory, to the inspiring Muhammad Ali Center, to the artsy Stoneware & Co. store filled with beautiful Louisville Stoneware.
As a side note, when I travel, there are no rules with my diet- I simply try to taste local specialties in the places where they originate. Therefore, in Louisville, that meant that I sampled their famed “Hot Brown” sandwich at the elegant Brown Hotel (turning 100 in October 2023).
The Hot Brown sandwich was born there in the Roaring 20’s, in the wee hours of the morning. Weary dancers were arriving to the Brown Hotel restaurant from the ballroom, hungry and clamoring for a wonderful culinary finish to their night of dancing. Chef Fred Schmitt wanted to offer something more than usual breakfast fare. His creation, dubbed the Hot Brown, was a big hit with the hungry revelers. I have since learned that the Hot Brown has become an ultimate comfort food. Louisvillians still seek it out, no matter how far from Louisville they roam. Even Chick-fil-A in Hapesville, GA has their own chicken version of a Hot Brown. Now I understand why.
How can I describe my first taste of this decadent delight? The Hot Brown is an open-faced turkey sandwich- an immediate winner for people like me that love white meat turkey. This sandwich uses juicy thick sliced turkey breast meat, arranged on toasted crustless white bread points. The Mournay sauce that then covers these layers is made from a creamy buttery roux accented with Pecorino Romano cheese and a pinch of nutmeg. Sliced Roma tomatoes are arranged around the base of the turkey and toast. The dish is then put under the broiler until the cheese is bubbly and brown. A final sprinkle of paprika and parsley, a criss-cross of crispy bacon slices placed on top of that cheese-and-turkey goodness- and your Hot Brown is ready to savor.
So I still hold onto my fond memories of Louisville, culinary and otherwise, different from the anomaly of today’s news. One day I will return again to Louisville’s Brown Hotel. First I’ll sip on an “Ali’s Smash” bourbon in their ornate Lobby Bar. Not only will I be surrounded by its elegant Old World decor, but also the elites and celebrities attending the famous Kentucky Derby horse race. Everyone- myself included- will be pleasingly attired in fancy spring pastels. The ladies will all be wearing their requisite over-the-top Kentucky Derby hats, decked with flowers, bows, ribbons, and feathers. At some point I will enjoy my crispy, creamy, tangy Hot Brown sandwich, perhaps partaking of it in the Brown Hotel’s sophisticated wood-paneled English Grill room. I will undoubtedly over-do afterwards with a decadent dessert of chocolate-and-walnut custard Derby Pie.
This is the Louisville that should be highlighted. It is a city with a core culture of hospitality and celebratory spirit, showcased by its delicious decadent culinary creations, and characterized by all things bourbon, equestrian, and bluegrass.
